San Diego Auto Detailing – Increase the Second-Hand Value of Your Auto by Utilizing San Diego Mobile Auto Detailing.

A basic car wash only removes topical dirt and filth acquired over short term driving. Regardless how thorough the wash is, car wash soap does not deep clean, polish or restore the paint from damage performed by bonded contamination, embedded dirt and staining, and various kinds of below surface defects. Well-maintained and effectively detailed cars really are really the only cars that truly benefit from a fundamental wash and putting on a wax or sealant. The theory being that you have already been through the process of decontamination (which differs from just washing) and either a mild polish, which deep cleans the paint to get rid of embedded dirt and stains or Downtown San Diego Auto Detailing, that may completely remove oxidation and below surface paint defects (think restoration) along with your paint just has to be maintained with a wash and wax or possibly a maintenance detail.

You will find a crucial step between washing and polishing, which is referred to as Paint Decontamination. Paint Decontamination is a process that breaks down and removes bonded contaminants for example industrial fallout (another name for pollution), brake dust, rail dust, tree sap and tar that embed themselves into the top of the paint leaving the top gritty and rough.

A good way to check on whether or not your vehicle is covered in bonded contamination is by using the Baggie Test. All you have to do is place a sandwich baggie over your hands and feel your paint after washing. The plastic sandwich baggie enhances your sense of touch and makes inspecting your paint easier. If your paint feels rough and gritty it means it’s contaminated. When your paint feels smooth as glass without any bumps or rough patches probably it’s free from bonded contamination. In order to discover more about paint contamination read this detailed article: How Paint Contamination Works Against Your Car & Paint.

When we went over previously, an easy polish will probably remove embedded dirt and stains from your paint but it’s not going to remove or correct any paint defects for example swirls, scratches, marring and etching. A full polish will probably remove a very small portion of your paint plus remove any below surface paint defects (oxidation, swirls, scratches, etching, etc.) that have been only as deep as the level of paint of paint removed.

Before & after removing embedded dirt and stains from a 2003 VW GTI. This vehicle was thoroughly washed and decontaminated before it received a mild polish, which removed all the dirt the thing is about the right polishing pad. If no dirt or staining was embedded to the paint, the pad would of stayed white.

For example, if you have a wooden tabletop that is certainly 3 inches thick so you accidently scratch the outer lining about 1 millimeter deep, it’s gonna leave an eye sore but it’s not deep enough to structurally damage the tabletop. What exactly you can do eliminate the defect is sand the tabletop to right below the deepest section of the scratch from the table. This will eliminate the scratch and reinstate your tabletop to perfect condition without harming the integrity in the table.

The same concept behind removing scratches from your wooden tabletop also relates to removing them from automotive paint. The aim of polishing paint is always to remove as many or as much of a scratch, swirl or etch as you possibly can without compromising the integrity of your paint. For this reason I always approach an issue utilizing the least aggressive method or product to get the job done properly. I wish to leave the maximum amount of of your paint about the car as you can therefore if it gets scratched again I can repeat the process safely and still have enough paint on the car to where it can be done multiple times again.

A perfect instance of not selecting the right tool for the job is by using a chain saw to reduce the table in half widthwise to remove the mirror surface scratch. You’ve drastically shortened the lifespan of your table since the right tool, product and technique were not properly chosen to fit the situation available.

Now let’s suppose someone started in thus hitting your tabletop having an axe directly from the center. The injury was 2.5 inches deep and was in the contour of the “V”, meaning the particular bottom of the 2.5-inch pit includes a smaller width, than the top of the pit. Considering that the injury to the tabletop was so deep it’s impossible to take out the pit completely without also ruining the structural integrity of your table. It would no longer be thick enough to service its function of as being a table. Even when you can’t completely remove the pit inside the tabletop through our previous method of sanding you can make it smaller and less noticeable if you remove a number of the tabletop width but not enough to where it might loose it’s structural integrity. Because the pit is actually shaped like a “V”, so as we remove width or material through the tabletop we are making the pit smaller and having the best looking table possible without compromising the integrity of the table because at the end of the day you continue to want to be able to utilize your table.

Deeper scratches in automotive paint work exactly the same way. Generally, the scratch is really a pit inside the paint much like a pointy triangle (or “V”) so that as you polish off paint through the surface you might be making that scratch smaller and smaller. The closer the top of the paint is to the base of the pit the less noticeable the scratch will probably be. If you use a deep scratch it’s possible so it will be look significantly less noticeable with polishing, even when that scratch is just not safe to totally remove.

50/50 both before and after a measure of polishing. All minor scratches and swirls were removed and servings of the deeper scratch were removed or minimized. This particular defect could of been safely removed 100% of how although the owner had not been enthusiastic about that measure of correction for his work truck.

If you want to take fixing the pit inside the tabletop a step further you could potentially fill it along with some kind of wood filler product, sand and stain the table again, which will fix the pit. This repaired area might or might not match the original staining or hue of the table for a variety of reasons but it will likely be less noticeable and also you won’t have any sort of pits or surface defects from the tabletop. This process is similar to fixing rock chips or deeper scratches in automotive paint, which require spot filling, painting, sanding, compounding and Downtown San Diego Auto Detailing up until the area is great as new or just like it is going to ever be.

In the event you can’t stand having any kind of defect or pit with your tabletop than you could always remove the legs of your table and acquire another tabletop, which would be corresponding to re-painting your automobile. It’s by far the most expensive option nevertheless it will fix all paint defects.

The wooden tabletop analogy doesn’t act as well with a light polish as it does with a full polish as well as other paint correction type processes but I’ll give you the general idea using the 62dexmpky analogy. Should you spill a glass of milk over a wooden table and don’t wipe all of it up completely it’s likely to penetrate the top of the tabletop and over time cause staining. When you leave the spilt milk on your table even for longer it could start to damage the wood by staining and degrading everywhere the milk surely could penetrate.

An easy polish would remove the embedded milk and topical staining yet not any of the damage left from neglecting the stain and letting it deeply penetrate the table. It might improve the look of the table but it really wouldn’t restore the table to its original condition because it now demands a full polish or higher to eliminate an adequate amount of the tabletop’s surface until the etching and staining is utterly removed.

The same scenario is leaving bug guts or bird droppings on your vehicle for the couple weeks or months. The organic matter in the bugs and bird poop will almost certainly connect with your paint and permanently damage the area. When the area is cleaned with time the etching can be polished and removed, but sometimes it will likely be too deep and need you to re-paint the location or discover how to live with the defects. To stop this headache completely it’s a good idea to keep 2-3 towels as well as a quick detailer with your truck to help you removed bird dropping and also other harmful contamination without delay.